Calypso’s Cave

The island of Gozo, known locally as Għawdex, is part of the Maltese archipelago and part of the Republic of Malta. Like many tourists I entered this rock via the ferry that runs from the main island. Gozo has been inhabited for thousands of years and you feel it’s age as you enter from the harbour: its architecture of low, limestone buildings built on top of rocky landscape is reminiscent of north African and the guttural spoken language sounds more Arabic than European. My fascination with islands comes from the realisation that they often represent a microcosm of a larger narrative, their history inextricably linked to the larger story of the mainland. Gozo, like Malta, is predominantly Catholic and religious figurines proliferate, from large statues in the streets to small figurines in the toilets. But its history goes back much further than this: it is etched into the stone and evident in the archaeological evidence of Neolithic temple ruins. Gozo, as part of Malta, has been ruled by Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Sicilians, French and British. Malta itself was part of the British Empire for 160 years, gained its independence from Britain in 1964 and became a Republic in 1974, and there are indications of this on the island, the odd English folk with UK passports still form the largest group of foreign residents living on Malta and Gozo. Today it is, of course, a popular tourist destination, renowned for its ragged yet beautiful coastline, its laid back lifestyle and leisure industry.